Multi-Pitch Climbing with a GriGri
Double Cap
Read Time - 5 minutes
May 2020
Assisted braking devices such as Petzl GriGri or CAMP Matik are great tools. But, many UK climbers don’t make full use of their scope of capabilities.
Petzl GriGris are a fantastic multi-pitch device too, for sport multi-pitch routes, traditional routes with bolted anchors, or traditional routes which can be climbed on a single rope; providing the following considerations are taken.
The Wrong Way - Direct off the anchor
When belaying a second, although possible, it is not advisable to belay direct off the anchor. Although this is common practice in many part of the world, and indeed taught in many online instructional materials, it is not best practice.
Care must be taken when attaching the device to the anchor so that the lever faces away from the rock. This prevents accidentally opening the lever when the device is dragged against the rock with the action of the rope. This would result in an extremely dangerous uncontrolled lower of the second.
When intentionally trying to lower your second or give slack, you will first need to redirect the brake strand back through a high point on the anchor. Failure to do so would result in an uncontrolled lower similar to that described above.
The Right Way - Redirected at the anchor
Instead, it is far better, and advised, to belay off your harness as for a bottom belay, with a redirect through the anchor. Ensure the belay carabiner is oriented correctly and safely, -not immediately obvious.
In this configuration you can make full use of the device’s functions safely, and without need to add anything to the anchor before lowering or giving slack.
Additional Considerations - Descent
Descent is an important consideration when deciding to climb a multi-pitch on a GriGri. If it’s a walk off, then there’s little complications for most climbers with a standard UK skill set. However, it is still worth carrying prusiks, and perhaps a stitchplate like a CAMP Ovo or Kong GiGi, for rescue applications.
If the route needs to be rappelled, first ask how long are the pitches? Often it will be possible to rappel the route on your single rope. If this is case, you have the choice of either, simul-rappelling, or using a ‘biner block’ technique. Alternatively, carry an tube style device or stitchplate for the rappel.
If the pitches are longer than half a rope length, you will need to carry a tag line. This is a foreign concept for many UK climbers, and requires knowledge of the ‘biner block’ rappel technique.
All of these techniques are advanced skills which require an understanding of the system involved, and practice to ensure proficiency. Make sure you know how to safely set-up, and execute them before setting off on a route.
Learnt something? Buy the No Thrills team a coffee to say thanks!